FOOD AND LOVE
An intimate dance of the senses
by John Ash

Food and Love: The two seem to have always been connected in an intimate dance of the senses. Do you ever think about it and wonder why the two are so intertwined? The most memorable (and sensuous) times of my life have all been around food. Friends, lovers and the dining table are all folded in together like some great souffl.

I remember an extraordinary Easter that I spent on the island of Crete many years ago. I was with a large Greek family and a bunch of traveling companions. We had met only a couple of days before but we knew everything about each other. Intimacy like that only seems to happen on the road. It must come from the fact that you can be absolutely open and honest because you know that in a few days youll never see each other again!

That day for me was mythical (or at least thats how Ive built it up after all these years). We started in the morning, on the beach roasting whole young lamb and kids (the goat kind) basting them in olive oil and fragrant herbs. Tomatoes, figs and cheeses were everywhere. The memory of the aromas is still intoxicating. By the afternoon, and with the help of a good deal of retsina, we ate, danced, touched ad swore our love and friendship forever. Havent we all had experiences like that? What is the magic here?

For all of recorded history, claims have been made that certain foods increase sexual potency and desire. Ive never found a complete listing of these, but there must be hundreds. The Chinese tout shark fin and birds nest (real ones) soups. The Scottish swear by haggis , a mixture of minced sheep innards mixed with oatmeal and spices and then stuffed into a sheeps stomach and boiled for 4 hours (Scots obviously have a different sense of sensuality!). The Aztecs include cocoa and chocolate (which interestingly were forbidden to their women), The Greeks revered pine nuts according to Ovid, Pliny mentioned hippopotamus snout and hyena eyes and every culture seems to have used oysters . Additionally, caviar, snails and the eggs, glands and genitals of all kinds of birds, animals and fish are said to provide special powers. Even prunes were so highly regarded as an aphrodisiac in Elizabethan times that they were freely served in brothels.

In the garden, apples, figs, bananas, cucumbers, leeks, peppers, tomatoes and potatoes have all been attributed with special sexual potentials at one time or another. The obvious connection being that many of them resemble human genitalia! Herbs and edible flowers including roses, lavender, catnip, passion flower, saffron, savory and ginseng root have been celebrated for their special powers.

Noted anthropologist, Peter Farb, observed that the association between food and sex has existed since man started walking upright. Eating brings couples into close proximity in a situation that does not call for defensive tactics. When you think about it, eating can bind a couple more effectively than sex simply because people eat more often and predictably than they have sexual relations.

Physiologically our nervous system deals in a similar way with both hunger and sexual excitement. We all have very sensitive structures called "Krauses end bulbs" that are found in both the taste buds of the mouth and in the sensitive parts of our sexual organs. This could explain why sexual desire and a delicious aroma of food both cause our mouths to water!

M.F.K. Fisher notes in her wonderful little book An Alphabet for Gourmets that gastronomy has always been connected with its sister art of love. Passion and sex is the "come-and-go, the preening and the prancing, the final triumph or defeat, of two people who know enough, subconsciously or not, to woo with food as well as flattery".

Enough of the lore; its now time for action! Ive several favorite recipes that I think are evocative (as well as provocative) of love and sensuality. Here are four of my favorites:

John Ash 2001

• Blueberries and French Cream
• Almond-Orange Biscotti
• Fresh Oysters steamed in spinach with 3 caviars
• Oysters on the half shell with pickled ginger salsa  
• Chocolate Truffle Tort

BLUEBERRIES AND FRENCH CREAM

Serves 6 generously

This is a very simple recipe, which Ive traditionally served almost every Valentines Day that I can remember. I try to use heart shaped molds for the cream!

• 2 pints fresh blueberries
• 3/4 cup sugar
• 2 teaspoons grated lemon zest
• 1 3 inch cinnamon stick or 1 whole star anise
• 1/4 cup dry red wine
• 1 teaspoon minced fresh mint
• For the French cream:
• 1 teaspoon unflavored gelatin
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 1 cup sour cream
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Garnish: Fresh mint sprigs and Almond-Orange Biscotti (recipe follows)

Place one pint blueberries, 1/4 cup sugar, 1 teaspoon lemon zest and red wine in a small saucepan over moderate heat. Simmer uncovered for 5 minutes or until mixture is syrupy. Off heat and cool and stir in remaining fresh blueberries and mint. Remove and discard cinnamon stick or star anise. Cover and refrigerate for up to 1 week.

For the cream: Combine the gelatin, cream and remaining 1/2 cup sugar in a saucepan over moderate heat. With a rubber spatula or wooden spoon, stir until sugar is dissolved. In a separate bowl, place the sour cream, vanilla and lemon. Gradually add the hot cream mixture stirring just until the mixture is smooth.

Rinse a 2-1/2 cup metal mold with cold water (or use individual ramekins). Shake out but do not dry. Pour the cream mixture into the wet mold. Refrigerate for 4 hours or longer until mixture is set and firm.

To serve: Unmold the cream by placing mold in a warm water bath for a few seconds to loosen cream. Turn over onto a cutting board. Slice cream into serving pieces and with a spatula place on chilled plates. Spoon blueberries around and garnish with mint sprigs and an Almond-Orange Biscotti, if desired. John Ash 2001

Almond-Orange Biscotti  

Biscotti, the "twice baked" treat from Italy can be made in an infinite number of flavors. They are very easy to make, keep well and make great little gifts from your kitchen.

• Makes 36 biscotti
• 3 large eggs, separated
• 1-1/2 cups sugar
• 1/3 cup melted butter, cooled
• 1 cup lightly toasted, coarsely chopped almonds
• 2 tablespoons Grand Marnier or other orange flavor liqueur
• 1/8 cup chopped, candied orange peel or 3 tablespoons finely grated orange zest
• 3-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1-1/2 teaspoons baking powder

Beat the egg yolks with 3/4 cup sugar until light and sugar is dissolved. Stir in the melted butter, nuts, Grand Marnier and candied orange. In a separate bowl beat the egg whites until they just begin to form peeks and gradually beat in remaining 3/4 cup sugar until whites form stiff peaks.

Sift flour and baking powder together and alternately fold 1/3 of flour and egg white mixtures into yolks until well combined. Dough will be firm and slightly sticky. If dough is too soft, add more flour. With floured hands, divide dough into two logs approximately 1-1/2 inches in diameter. Arrange logs on a buttered or parchment lined baking sheet and bake in a preheated 325 degree oven for 20-25 minutes or until logs are lightly brown and firm to the touch. Remove from oven and let logs cool on baking pan on a rack for 10 minutes. On a cutting board, cut logs crosswise on the diagonal into 1/2 inch widths. Arrange biscotti cut side down on baking pan and bake for 5-7 minutes on each side or until biscotti are very lightly browned and crisp. Cool on racks and store airtight. John Ash 2001

FRESH OYSTERS STEAMED IN SPINACH WITH THREE CAVIARS

Serves 6

• 36 small fresh oysters, shucked all liquor reserved
• 36 leaves young spinach
• 4 tablespoons chopped shallot or scallion
• 1/2 cup sliced mushrooms
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
• 2-1/2 cups flavorful shellfish stock
• 3/4 cup dry white wine
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh ginger
• 1 cup heavy cream
• Drops of fresh lemon juice
• Sea salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste

Garnish: Lightly blanched julienne of leeks and carrots and fresh sturgeon, salmon and golden caviars.

Very quickly blanch the spinach leaves in boiling salted water until just limp. Plunge into ice water to set the color. Pat dry and wrap each oyster completely. Set aside refrigerated.

To make the sauce: Saut the shallots and mushrooms in two tablespoons of the butter until lightly browned. Add 2 cups stock, 2/3 cup wine, ginger and reserved oyster liquor and reduce by half.

Add cream and reduce again to a light sauce consistency. Whisk in 1 tablespoon butter, strain and correct seasoning with salt, pepper and drops of lemon juice. The sauce will hold for up to 2 hours in a warm spot near the stove (not over 110 degrees) or in a thermos till serving time.

To complete the dish: Place remaining stock, wine and remaining tablespoon of butter in a non-aluminum saut pan. Bring to a simmer and add oysters in one layer. Cover and simmer for 15 seconds. Take pan off heat and leave covered while assembling rest of dish.

On warm plates, place two tablespoons or so of the sauce in the center and arrange the oysters attractively on top. Top each oyster with a demitasse spoon of one of the caviars so that all three are used. Garnish with a sprinkling of the julienned vegetables and serve immediately. John Ash 2001

CHOCOLATE TRUFFLE TORT

 Serves 10-12

So, this is my "death by chocolate" contribution to the world of cooking - a loving send-off to life itself and a heck of a way to go at that! A little slice is all you need. I love serving this with some very slightly sweetened blackberry coulis or sauce to help balance some of the richness.

Yields one 9 inch cake

• 5 ounces (1-1/4 sticks) unsalted sweet butter
• 10 ounces (1-1/4 cups) bitter-sweet chocolate, finely chopped
• 1 tablespoon instant espresso or 2 tablespoons dark rum (optional)
• 8 large eggs, separated
• 1/2 cup sugar
• Pinch of salt
• 2 teaspoons grated orange zest

Garnish: Cocoa, powdered sugar and a coulis made from slightly sweetened, pureed and strained fresh or IQF blackberries, if desired.

Over low heat, warm butter until just melted but not hot. Add chocolate and espresso powder or rum and whisk until melted. Cool slightly. In a separate bowl beat yolks and half the sugar until light in color. Add warm chocolate mixture and whisk together.

With a mixer preferably, separately whip egg whites with a pinch of salt, orange zest and add remaining sugar gradually just until firm peaks are formed. Stir in one quarter of whipped whites into chocolate mixture to lighten it. Carefully fold in remaining whites.

Very lightly oil or butter a 9-inch spring form pan and place a circle of parchment or waxed paper on bottom. Pour batter into pan and bake at 350 degrees for 45 minutes. Cool and refrigerate if not serving same day. Note that cake will have a "cracked" top surface, which is part of its charm!

To serve: Slice in small wedge and dust alternately with good unsweetened cocoa and powdered sugar and a tablespoon or two of blackberry coulis on plate if desired. John Ash 2001

OYSTERS ON THE HALF SHELL WITH PICKLED GINGER SALSA

 Absolutely fresh oysters on the half shell are one of Gods gifts to us. In California we get from several farms ranging from Tomales Bay north of San Francisco all the way up to British Columbia. A single variety, Miyagi from Japan, makes up most of what is cultivated. Its an amazingly adaptable creature and very sensitive to where its grown. It can taste and look very different depending on where its grown.

Yields 24 oysters

• 24 fresh oysters such as Hog Island, Preston Point, Fanny Bay, etc.
• Pickled Ginger Salsa
• Yield: Approximately 1-1/2 cups
• 1/4 cup diced jicama
• 1/2 cup peeled, seeded and diced cucumber
• 1/4 cup finely sliced red onion
• 3 tablespoons chopped pickled ginger
• 1 tablespoon seasoned rice wine vinegar
• 1 teaspoon lemon juice
• 1 tablespoon coarsely chopped cilantro leaves
• 1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds
• 1/4 teaspoon sugar (or to taste)
• Salt and fresh ground pepper to taste

Combine all ingredients, cover and refrigerate. Use same day as made.

To serve: With oyster knife, remove top shell from each oyster being careful to reserve all liquor (juices). Cut underneath oyster to free it from bottom shell. Place a teaspoon or so of Pickled Ginger Salsa on top of each oyster and serve immediately. John Ash 2001